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Varnish Making Towner 6 1
Michael Darnton
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Group: Members
Posts: 4
Joined: Jun 26, 2005

If you're using an oil varnish, try adding just a couple of drops of turpentine to it. It's hard to say how much--maybe 20 drops in one ounce of varnish. Be careful--if you use too much, the varnish will run right off the violin!

Posted Oct 4, 2006, 3:36 am
f Hole cutters Making David Wigg 5 2
Michael Darnton
Newbie


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Group: Members
Posts: 4
Joined: Jun 26, 2005

I just found in my latest catalogue that Japan Woodworker sells bits which are sharp enough to do the job, and also provides excellent photos, if you want to make them yourself. The only difference with home made is that instead of a flat bottom between the inside and outside you'll have a V-shaped bottom, from the corner of your grinding wheel.
http://japanwoodworker.com/dept.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&dept_id=12815

Posted Dec 7, 2005, 5:20 pm
Michael Darnton
Newbie


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Group: Members
Posts: 4
Joined: Jun 26, 2005

I use spur bits. They're normal drill bits sharpened so that the outside edge forms a cutting spur. The ones that are sold commercially aren't really sharp enough to do the job, but once you've seen one, it's easy to figure out how to make one from a normal bit by using the corner of a grinding wheel.

There's one illustrated here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit
It's gold-colored, on the right of the page, a little bit down the page. As they point out, another name for it is "brad point". Use them in the drill press, and they do an extremely clean job.

Here's another photo:
http://www.maximumvelocity.com/bradpoint.jpg

Posted Dec 3, 2005, 3:17 pm
Blocks Making jbviolin 3 1
Michael Darnton
Newbie


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Group: Members
Posts: 4
Joined: Jun 26, 2005

The holes for end blocks in the original Stradivari molds vary a lot, from smaller than modern to much wider, but the modern standard is around 55mm wide for the upper block, and 50mm for the lower one

Posted Jun 26, 2005, 11:53 pm
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